Sand Replenishment Blows
No one fully understands how the ocean moves sand around. When meddling organizations like the CoE dump sand on our beaches, the ocean immediately starts to take it somewhere else. Sometimes that works out to our advantage, (the SuperBank comes to mind) but when a reef is the main source of a wave’s shape, this sand can collect in the deep areas surrounding the structure. These deep areas define the shape and size of a wave and when they are filled with sand, the result is smaller, closed out waves. I’ve seen it happen with other types of structure like sand bars as well.
Photo by Maggie Marsek
The storms that raged through San Diego in December moved tons of sand dumped on North County San Diego beaches in 2000 to god knows where. By the next swell, peaks that were closed out or mushy for years were consistently producing long, steep waves. Thanks to this recent sand movement, I recently scored roping and walled up olas at an empty break that hasn’t produced a fun ride in years. The more crowded spots that day were working better than normal as well.
Today I walked down to the beach for a surf check and found that some of the sand has come back. Bummer. I thought it was a bit strange that the sand came back so quickly, until I found out about the beach re-nourishment project going on a Ponto. Figures.
The surf was too small today to tell how it affected the reefs, so I’ve got my fingers crossed that they aren’t covered in sand. If they are unaffected, it might not be for long, because when the planned resort is built at Ponto, the developers are going to dump the sand they excavated on Ponto. I’m not sure why the Coast Law Group (a partner of with the Surfrider Foundation in the battle against the Trestles toll road) supports sand renourishment, but they do.
The moral of this entry? Score these North County reefs before they become beach breaks again.
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January 31st, 2007 at 10:12 pm
The city of Encinitas wants lots and lots of sand on the beach because it looks pretty. They also clear away any driftwood (???) I guess they have never seen a natural beach in central or northern California (those even have logs on them sometimes, *gasp*)
The reefs have been good now that all that extra sand washed away. There are even some indicator rocks that appear when the sand is back to a normal/natural level. Most importantly, the kelp is starting to grow back because the rocks and reefs they attached too are exposed (kelp won’t grow from a sandy bottom).
Sand is good, but we don’t want too much of it. Any sand we lose to winter should return with spring/summer south swells. The problem is, the natural sand flows are all jacked due to development.
February 1st, 2007 at 3:25 am
I just think that the Governements should ask themselves why is this happenning!? and try to solve the root of the problem and not just covering it with sand!
The same problem it’s happenning all around the world. Now just think about it.
February 1st, 2007 at 10:16 am
Part of the problem could be all the midget Mexican wrestlers that swim up from Tijuana. They emerge on the beaches and tear off their luchador masks of oppression and they are full of sand from the turbid waters. This could be a cause of all the sand build-up. Either that or it could be the Corps of Engineers dumping all their dredge sand.
Either way, it’s probably best if you see a little midget wrestler emerging from the water to give him the stink eye, cause those guys are nothing but trouble anyways.
February 1st, 2007 at 10:00 pm
Sooooo true.
February 1st, 2007 at 10:15 pm
I totally concur on the midget wrestler problem…they pretty much clog the lineup and hide in the driftwood piles up here in Oregon…jumping out and trying wrestle you after your all tired from a ice cold, 4 wave holdown session…they’re really strong for little fellas!
What’s the deal on the resort? I grew up on Bataquitos Lagoon…
February 3rd, 2007 at 11:25 am
Doc and JP, you need to quit the midget bashing. The little fellas are people too. Rent ‘Even Dwarves Started Small’ and ‘Under The Rainbow’ (my two favourite midget movies) and next time one pops out from the driftwood, you’ll embrace him as a brother rather than go for the airplane spin. Fantastic Maggie photo there too.
February 8th, 2007 at 4:51 am
I don’t much about the midgets or the luchador mask problems, but I sure do miss that fun little suckout bowl just south of turtles.
April 20th, 2007 at 4:02 pm
Hey,
I love what you’e doing!
Don’t ever change and best of luck.
Raymon W.