Archive for the 'waves' Category

Portugal is Holding

Monday, May 25th, 2009

I’ve been crusing Google Earth allot during this flat spell. Through a combination of user photos, the new timeline feature and ocean terrains, I’ve found that Portugal is HOLDING. From this picture I found while looking at user’s photos, it like a few beings know it too…

You can view this location without GE on Panoramio.

SF Waves

Sunday, May 27th, 2007

osha waves

The waves in this wall of corduroy weren’t very big, but they happened to be in one of the best Thai restaurants I’ve ever been in, called Osha. Can you say Green Tea Mojitos?


Monday, April 9th, 2007

Maggie grabbed this snapshot of a slightly bumpy Lowers last Thursday. I had the GH fish out here and loved every second. It’s such a fun board to flying down the line getting in tons of turns and bumping floaters off the white water.

Pit of Gold

Friday, February 9th, 2007

Baja Swell

Wednesday, December 13th, 2006

The night outside is black and cold, but I’ve shut myself in the camper of my truck and I already feel warmer. The light from a dozen fires surrounding us reveals the number of camps that will spew surfers into the lineup tomorrow morning.

The emptiness of the white noise that fills the air outside belies the violence of the war the ocean is waging with the small point we have camped on. Tomorrow we will wake and observe and prepare and enter the fray between the point and the sea. We will float and glide turn and trim upon the soldiers of the ocean and their fury, enjoying a war that will briefly subside, but never end.

Photo by the outstanding Tom Shepard

Note: I rushed this and accidently combined it with the previous post.

Tres Agave

Wednesday, December 13th, 2006

tres agave baja

Rob Machado at the BMP

Thursday, September 14th, 2006

rob machado boost mobile pro
rob machado boost mobile pro
rob machado boost mobile pro

All photos by Maggie Marsek

River Surfing

Sunday, August 27th, 2006

I’d love to do this sometime. Seems like these guys could be making better turns on less traditional equiment though. No need for all the paddle volume, so I’m thinking 4’10 twin keel – 18-1/2w (6″ back of center) x 14n x 13t x 2thick might be a fun experiment.

State of Surf

Sunday, July 9th, 2006

I freaking love Wetsand’s State of Surf report. The newest one just came out for July and in it, Nathan Cool explains recent weak southern hemis with the two words every west cost waverider wants to hear most. El Nino. Now, every surf forcasting site on the planet knows that El Nino can boost pageviews (and advertising revenue) more than a Pam Anderson home movie, so a little extra research is in order.

NOAA’s prediction? Normal conditions for the next three months, with a week El Nino forcasted for the winter. It should be noted though that NOAA has labled this prediction with “considerable uncertainty”. It’s bad news for the summer, but good news for the winter.

As for the East Coast’s hurricane season, Cool enlightens us to a variable everyone missed when predicting the severity of the season. Africain dust storms. It seems a drought in Africa has caused greater than normal dust plumes branching out into the Atlantic. These plumes are keeping water temps low over the major storm formation areas. Good news for home owners, bad news for Home Depot’s profit margins and surfers.

Wave Pools Suck

Sunday, May 14th, 2006

So let’s agree right now that 6, 5-8 foot waves per minute that break for 70 to 100 yards in salt water is not a wave pool. Kerry Black has designed a versatile reef he can change on a whim to resemble any of the long list of breaks he has collected precise bathometric data on. Want to surf Chopes? It’s scheduled for May 13th to May 21st 2007. JBay breaks the next week and the week after that The WEDGE comes to Orlando, Florida for 7 days of body whomping, spectated fun. Notice: That schedule is total fiction.

The operators of Ron John’s Surfpark have the ability to make changes to the reef during your session. Imagine a group of ‘locals’ start with a perfectly imperfect rendition of an Uppers right. They shout out instructions to raise a specific panel in the wave pool ‘reef’ 18 inches. This change causes an early section that can crumble on you to jack up, offering a backdoor to the green clear room. A few waves later, everyone in the linup agrees the wave should be tweeked it to present a smackable lip before the tube, which now spits the rider out into a steep, boostable wall. After the session the operator clicks SAVE, and a new wave is born.

With all this potential though, the Surfpark will be missing many of the things that make a less perfect break a classic wave. Sea life will be replaced by screaming kids who’ve dropped their ice cream. There will be no tricky cliff access to navigate, or coral reef underfoot waiting to punish your mistakes. There will be no paddle out (you’ll just jump in) and the lineup will drop it’s UP. It is entirely possible that Shea Lopez will be stuck waiting in line behind you, if he is so inclined to jump in during a regular session. The view out of the best barrell of your life won’t be a Tahitian mountain peak, it’ll be of the surf mom’s in the bleachers directly infront of you.

Perhaps most artificial though, is that no grom waiting on a set will ever wander who first surfed the wave. The photo behind the cash register will be Kerry Black deep in the wave’s first tube.

Lots more at and

Ten Over - Links for Flat Spells
  • Hey wow, check out this video of GH I found on Mollusk's site.

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  • I want one of these surfboard slings for those long walks to trestles.

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  • A three six zero preformed on nothing more than a belly button. (How's the commentary brah!?!) Here's an erBB thread with more video from this contest at Sandy's Beach in Hawaii.

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  • Ryan Heywood releases Bodysurf v3. Spot-Fucking-On and not a logo to be found. Makes me want to go get some with just my skin on.

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  • Remember the press release, email and social media campaign quk put out when Julian Wilson pulled that sushi rollshit? O'niel and redbull have a clone of that machine rolling for Jordy's rodeo flip. Here's the video on Yahoo sports.

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  • A new episode of Hi Shredability with Chris Christenson and Brad Gerlach riding Harleys and looking for waves in New York.

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  • Awesome spot logos! Just don't ask where they are.

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  • Reminds me of byrne, the heads, arcade fire... etc. You can get their album for a buck through July 4th.

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  • Why couldn't these guys take the Cardiff reef sup crew with them? We could have all chipped in to make it possible.

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  • The End Of The Road. Why we'll have no seafood left in 50 years. I ate my entire seafood quota for the year the other week in North Carolina.

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Ten Over - Links for Flat Spells