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Wednesday From Above

Wednesday, December 12th, 2007

70’s favorite Baja bush pilot Wes “Hondo” Turner snagged a job towing that Surfride banner you saw all morning Wednesday the 5th. He managed to get a few shots off while trying to keep the blue on top.Thanks for sharing bro.

Swamis, lines up near the kelp while a jetski saves the kooks.

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Further down the coast, Blacks shows the enormous refraction effect it’s canyon has on swells…

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…then throws a fat lip, to let the beach know who’s boss.

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One mile south, La Jolla Cove gets mental.

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Down the line at La Jolla Cove.

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After Drought, Rain?

Sunday, July 22nd, 2007

Ok, so there is no wave drought if you have enough foam, but with so few head high or better swells this summer, the whole west coast is feeling a little parched. Relief may be in sight…

Hurricane Swell

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Big Wednesday - 12/21/05

Friday, December 22nd, 2006

I can’t believe I completely missed the anniversary of the biggest day I can remember. Here’s a reminder found on the Surfer mag BB:

I personally avoided that spot like the plague, mostly fearing the crowds. I’d be lying though, if I said I wasn’t afraid of getting caught inside by a set like that. The break I did surf almost claimed my bro’s life right in front of me and put me in the most life threatening spot I’ve ever been in while surfing (tied up in kelp with huge walls of white water pounding me). That day produced a story I relish telling and 1000 other stories as well, evidenced by this thread on the erBB.

December 21st made me want to find the right board,
test it and ride it well when it’s day comes.

It taught me that to turn and paddle is a commitment,
that the drops are longer and more critical.

It taught me that a turn in the face of a wave of size can last for a day
and still not be as long as the bottom turn preceding it.

It made me realize that your rhythm must change to match the rhythm of the swell
and that time moves slower when you travel at such speeds.

It made me want to surf a bigger day and have no regrets when I exit,
no memories of waves I could have made and didn’t try for, or waves I wasted.

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Bud & Carlotta

Wednesday, July 12th, 2006

More info at NOAA.

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Random Media

The Upsetters - 14 Dub Blackboard Jungle - One of the first dub albums to surface from the mega watt depths deep inside Jamaica circa 74. Originally released in a batch of 300 LPs, now available at your finger tips remastered and restored. If you don't have this, do yourself a favor and jump into the abyss.

Get MP3s at Amazon More On

A rare Pendoflex on craigslist. Sadly, no photos.
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This video-gif explains why there isn't a subset of surfers that drive around looking for gnarly roofs to drop in on.
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Traveling and surfing around Europe (and especially Portugal) by train sounds really good right about now.
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Kookbox (Joel Tudor's new board company) launches it's site. DONT MISS the trailer for the new jbrother film Shorter (Click movies/shorter trailer) or the JT Archive. I wish I could log as good as mini Joel circa 1989.
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I've been following Malwitz Custom shapes from his beginning. It started as a way to watch the east coast scene and the backyard scene grow at the same time. I really couldn't believe that surfing had spread so far and wide, that backyarders were popping up in major cities with intimidating routes to the beach. Fast forward to today and the duder's shapes are looking really straight and he's moved on to harder game, like hollow wooden rides. All I can say is "wow" and keep blogging & shaping brody.
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Surf Art Fridays: Chris Robb's alibi.
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Thomas Campbell has a brand new site up! It's absolutely insanely packed full of art, crazy films, a blog (we demand more blogging Tmoe!), a shop: (art, ts and movies, books, oh man...). Just go go go go. The site is the work of The One Peter McBride.
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Drift Mag issue 07 is out now. You've got to give it up to Drift... they cover the surfing the other rags don't. It's the surfing you want to see... logs, fish, wooden shelf material as surfboards, thrusters, everything, AND they support the surf blog community. The content has only gotten better over time, but is Drift suddenly no longer free? Is it no longer a digital download? Has it tossed the free love direction it started out in, in favor of a traditional mag model?
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If you want to go to a real show, the one for the public... the one for surf RIDERS, not wearers, mark "Sacred Craft" on your calendar for the 11th and 12th of October.
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Would you believe there are still boards in the ASR? Check this thread on the erBB for proof. Some Highlights:

9 Fish, the kookiest of popout sellers has gone to new heights. (12 foot or so)
Insane channels
Bikini Babes
The SkyRock chinese pop out booth with a seriously lonely seller.
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Tenover Archive

Archive for the 'swell' Category

Wednesday From Above

After Drought, Rain?

Big Wednesday - 12/21/05

Bud & Carlotta

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