Archive for the 'swell' Category

Wednesday From Above

Wednesday, December 12th, 2007

70′s favorite Baja bush pilot Wes “Hondo” Turner snagged a job towing that Surfride banner you saw all morning Wednesday the 5th. He managed to get a few shots off while trying to keep the blue on top.Thanks for sharing bro.

Swamis, lines up near the kelp while a jetski saves the kooks.


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Further down the coast, Blacks shows the enormous refraction effect it’s canyon has on swells…


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…then throws a fat lip, to let the beach know who’s boss.


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One mile south, La Jolla Cove gets mental.


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Down the line at La Jolla Cove.


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After Drought, Rain?

Sunday, July 22nd, 2007

Ok, so there is no wave drought if you have enough foam, but with so few head high or better swells this summer, the whole west coast is feeling a little parched. Relief may be in sight…

Hurricane Swell

Big Wednesday – 12/21/05

Friday, December 22nd, 2006

I can’t believe I completely missed the anniversary of the biggest day I can remember. Here’s a reminder found on the Surfer mag BB:

I personally avoided that spot like the plague, mostly fearing the crowds. I’d be lying though, if I said I wasn’t afraid of getting caught inside by a set like that. The break I did surf almost claimed my bro’s life right in front of me and put me in the most life threatening spot I’ve ever been in while surfing (tied up in kelp with huge walls of white water pounding me). That day produced a story I relish telling and 1000 other stories as well, evidenced by this thread on the erBB.

December 21st made me want to find the right board,
test it and ride it well when it’s day comes.

It taught me that to turn and paddle is a commitment,
that the drops are longer and more critical.

It taught me that a turn in the face of a wave of size can last for a day
and still not be as long as the bottom turn preceding it.

It made me realize that your rhythm must change to match the rhythm of the swell
and that time moves slower when you travel at such speeds.

It made me want to surf a bigger day and have no regrets when I exit,
no memories of waves I could have made and didn’t try for, or waves I wasted.

Bud & Carlotta

Wednesday, July 12th, 2006

tropical storm bud, carlotta

More info at NOAA.


Ten Over - Links for Flat Spells
  • Hey wow, check out this video of GH I found on Mollusk's site.

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  • I want one of these surfboard slings for those long walks to trestles.

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  • A three six zero preformed on nothing more than a belly button. (How's the commentary brah!?!) Here's an erBB thread with more video from this contest at Sandy's Beach in Hawaii.

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  • Ryan Heywood releases Bodysurf v3. Spot-Fucking-On and not a logo to be found. Makes me want to go get some with just my skin on.

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  • Remember the press release, email and social media campaign quk put out when Julian Wilson pulled that sushi rollshit? O'niel and redbull have a clone of that machine rolling for Jordy's rodeo flip. Here's the video on Yahoo sports.

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  • A new episode of Hi Shredability with Chris Christenson and Brad Gerlach riding Harleys and looking for waves in New York.

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  • Awesome spot logos! Just don't ask where they are.

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  • Reminds me of byrne, the heads, arcade fire... etc. You can get their album for a buck through July 4th.

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  • Why couldn't these guys take the Cardiff reef sup crew with them? We could have all chipped in to make it possible.

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  • The End Of The Road. Why we'll have no seafood left in 50 years. I ate my entire seafood quota for the year the other week in North Carolina.

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