Edgespoon.com has 17 exhaustive PDFs detailing the history of George Greenough’s contributions to surfing.
If you go to the types of LA and OC parties where surfcats debate the various styles Greenough’s hair went through while he single handedly reinvented the riding of waves or you simply love surf history, you need to read them all from start to finish.
If you read books by looking at the pictures, there are plenty and you can sum the history lesson up with one quote from writer Paul Gross:
Having fun in the water was the only goal he ever pursued and three decades of subsequent media manipulation in surfing haven’t been able to generate the influence he wielded with the sword of his own innocence.
Thanks to James McClellan for keeping me in Alt Surfcraft links!