Big Wednesday – 12/21/05
I can’t believe I completely missed the anniversary of the biggest day I can remember. Here’s a reminder found on the Surfer mag BB:
I personally avoided that spot like the plague, mostly fearing the crowds. I’d be lying though, if I said I wasn’t afraid of getting caught inside by a set like that. The break I did surf almost claimed my bro’s life right in front of me and put me in the most life threatening spot I’ve ever been in while surfing (tied up in kelp with huge walls of white water pounding me). That day produced a story I relish telling and 1000 other stories as well, evidenced by this thread on the erBB.
December 21st made me want to find the right board,
test it and ride it well when it’s day comes.
It taught me that to turn and paddle is a commitment,
that the drops are longer and more critical.
It taught me that a turn in the face of a wave of size can last for a day
and still not be as long as the bottom turn preceding it.
It made me realize that your rhythm must change to match the rhythm of the swell
and that time moves slower when you travel at such speeds.
It made me want to surf a bigger day and have no regrets when I exit,
no memories of waves I could have made and didn’t try for, or waves I wasted.
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December 22nd, 2006 at 11:39 pm
That guy at the end of the line who got sprayed with all the spit had an incredible view of all of his fellow surfers having an unfortunate run-in with the ocean’s lawnmower. I bet that was a beating that nobody will ever forget, hopefully it made them all stronger and more confident in their ability to breath-hold. I can just imagine that thing peaking up in front of me, it gives me the chills!
December 22nd, 2006 at 11:51 pm
Getting bowled by the white water sucks, but the lip is what turns me white. I had one on a solid day hit my leg as I was duckdiving. I thought it was broken for about a minute, then feeling slowly returned.
January 20th, 2007 at 11:02 pm
riding waves is fun. paddling out is often scary. ive been caught inside at blacks before…….never quite that big, but definitely overhead. its not fun. the feeling of knowing your about to get the shit beat out of you is difficult to explain. yet, i go back again and again…